How to Recovering PowerPoint Files in OS

How to Recover All Deleted Files on Mac OS X EasilyAh, PowerPoint. Once scoffed at, the program has become a staple for meetings, lectures, talks and think tanks of the 21st century. Usually, if you’re creating a PowerPoint presentation, it means you plan to speak in front of a group of people. This makes it all the more stressful if you lose a file either through a glitch or a power failure or severe hardware damage. The good news for you is that you have a few options to get that sleek new presentation back.

Auto Recover

PowerPoint has an auto recover feature that will save a .ppt file every so often. This is a similar feature to most Google services, which save automatically. If you have auto recover running, you can always get your files back, even if your computer was damaged or unexpectedly shut down.

Recovery Software

If you can’t use auto recover to get your file back, try downloading third-party software. This is a pretty easy process, but it’s important that you not use the affected drives while going through the recovery process. This means no saving or altering files because when you delete a file you don’t actually destroy it, but mark it as available to be overwritten.

Once you isolate the affected drives and download a recovery app, you can run it. Make sure that you’re running the app on the appropriate device–i.e a device containing the files you need.

After the scan is complete, you’ll be able to preview the files manually. Usually filenames are lost in the recovery process, so previewing everything can take a little bit of time. Just take your time and find what you need.

Now that you’ve scanned your computer and previewed all of your files, the only step left is to actually recover the file you want. This should be as easy as the click of a button. Just make sure that you back it up to a location other than your current device. An external hard drive or even USB drive is preferable.

And that’s all you need to do to handle most recovery situations. There are a few extenuating circumstances (such as hardware damage) where you might need to go to an expert, but in most other cases the steps outlined above should be plenty!

More Info: How to Recover All Deleted Files on Mac OS X Easily

5 Way to recovering Data on i Phones for Mac Users

way to recover lost filesi Phones are ingenious pieces of technology that, more and more, make the world go ’round. If you own one, you probably find yourself saving and storing all kinds of data on your phone. Every now and then you may decide to go through and clean up the junk files out of your memory. This is a great practice to be in, but unfortunately in the cleaning process files that you wanted to keep unintentionally get lost or deleted.

How to recover data for Mac products

When you delete a file from your phone it’s not actually gone. Instead your hard drive as opened up the space that file was occupying. To save it from permanent loss, you’ll want to download a recovery program.

Here is a list of some applications that are well-reviewed and easy to use!

uFlysoft Data Recovery: This Pendrive App recovers from an array of partitions and uses very little memory on your phone. uflysoft is powerful enough to retrieve compressed as well as encrypted files. On the flip side, uflysoft has a feature that lets you permanently delete files.

TestDisk: This tool will help you find lost partitions and gain access to drives that won’t otherwise boot. TestDisk is more of an emergency tool, but one that’s invaluable when the situation calls for. If your partitions are badly damaged this program comes into its own. It is also effective for rebuilding FAT and NTFS boot sectors or copy files from ext 2 and 3 file systems.

Recuva: A program created by Piriform, this app is a jack-of-all trades that can undelete, recover all major files and restore unsaved documents. Its scan feature is thorough and user interface very intuitive.

Restoration: This app provides a quick and easy method for rescuing files from the recycle bin. You can refine your searches by file extensions to dig up data that’s been buries. Conversely, the program has a feature that allows you to wipe files beyond a point where they can be easily recovered.

Once you pick an app and run it, make sure to back up all of your files to a third party system. i Cloud and gmail are two very simple and effective options.

These are just a few of the many great options out there. The most important thing to remember is that no matter what software you get, you should have some system for backing up and recovering your mac files!

How to Recover Lost USB Drive on a Mac

We all know that if the documents in USB drive are deleted, then it is gone forever. But, what should you do if those documents are very important? How to recover deleted documents  from USB drive?

Documents deleted from USB drive are different from those deleted from your computer. Documents (excluding large documents) deleted from computer will be stored in Recycle Bin. If you want to get the deleted documents back, you can just get them back from the Recycle Bin. However, documents deleted from USB drive are different and won’t stay in Recycle Bin.

Although deleted  documents from USB drive won’t stay in Recycle Bin, the easiest and most convenient recovery way is to use documents recovery software to recover deleted documents. Let’s take a look at the specific procedures to recover documents deleted from USB drive.

      1. Preparation work: install Data Recovery software in your computer, and then connect USB drive to your computer. If you have already done this, you can just skip the step 1.

      2. Begin to recover deleted documents  from the USB drive: start Data Recovery software, click “scan” and follow the indication displayed in Recovery Wizard.

      3. After the software finishing scanning all documents in the USB drive, the scan result will be displayed in software list to recover documents deleted from USB drive.

      4. Finally store the documents needed to be recovered and then everything is done. Don’t forget to store it in the USB drive where it was deleted from to avoid damage the original data.

Although recovery of deleted documents  from USB drive requires software of strong recovery ability, documents recovery has its precondition. Only deleted documents not being damaged can be recovered. So, for documents recovery, everyone should know that if the documents get lost, the most important thing is to protect data to avoid it being damaged.

How to Retrieve Lost Files or Data from Your Mac OS X PC

Everyone may come across the situation of losing important photos, financial documents or emails on your Mac hard drive. So it is highly suggested you to back up all important documents on a regular basis. It is the most convenient way for you to get back data you accidentally lost. But sometimes you may forget to copy the files on hard drive, don’t be frustrated, Mac Data Recovery software can save you from losing important documents.

Why is Mac Data Recovery Possible?

No matter the data are deleted from your hard drive due to accidental deletion or formatting, even virus attack. The files are not deleted permanently as a matter of fact. When you delete files from the hard drive, actually the files are still intact there and simply the space where those files occupied is now marked as available to be overwritten. Formatting is also similar. As long as the space is not overwritten, there is a high chance to get data back from your Mac hard drive.

Get Back Data with Mac Data Recovery

To recover data lost from hard drive, we need the help from a third application party – Mac Data Recovery. Here we humbly suggest the Data Recovery for Mac, a professional and easy-to-use data recovery for Mac users with any computer-level. It is capable to recover deleted, formatted and inaccessible documents, images, videos, archives, songs, etc. from Mac desktop, Macbook and iPod (Classic, Shuffle, and Nano), digital camera, USB drives, mobile phones and other storage media. With the user-friendly interface, you can retrieve data just by a few mouse clicks. Now firstly download Data Recover Mac and follow the three easy steps below to get data back.

Step 1: Select the logical hard drive

Launch the Data Recovery for Mac, and select the drive where your lost files were and start to scan by clicking the “scan” button. It can recover the lost files from external hard drives and USB flash drives as well as the Macintosh hard disk.

Step 2: Preview and recover the lost files on Mac hard drive

After scanning, you’ll see a list of all recoverable files on your designated disk. Here the Mac Data Recovery Software supports the preview function for documents, photos and archives. Pick up the check-box of the lost files which you want to recover and click the “Recover” button.

Step 3: Select a recovery path to save files after recovering

Select a destination where you want to save the target files, and then click the “Save” button. If your hard drive with lost data has been overwritten by new content, it is hard to recover it by data recovery software, so we highly recommend you to save the files in a different drive from your source one.

Here it is, finally your lost files go back together again!


Read this one to get more details about Mac data recovery whenever you want.

Ways to to Share an External Drive Between Mac and Windows PC

Looking to share an external hard drive between a Mac and PC? The best way to do it is with a drive formatted as FAT32. Though this format has some limitations, it enjoys nearly universal support from active platforms, including Mac and Windows operating systems, and many gaming and Linux OSs.

The chief drawbacks of FAT32 involve file and partition size limitations. FAT32 imposes a size limit of 4GB on single files. So if you work with bulky video clips, for example, adopting FAT32 may not be a good idea. When formatting partitions, Windows 7’s Disk Management utility won’t let you create one that’s larger than 32GB, whereas Mac OS X Lion can create partitions as large as 2TB using its Disk Utility application. Finally, Mac OS X’s Time Machine backup utility won’t work with FAT32.

Windows prefers to use NTFS (which stands for New Technology File System, though it has been around for nearly 20 years now). Macs running Snow Leopard or Lion can read from drives formatted as NTFS, but they can’t write to such drives unless you install a third-party driver or muck about in the Terminal. Conversely, Windows 7 can’t read and write to drives formatted as HFS+–also known as Mac OS Extended (journaled)–unless you install third-party software such as Paragon’s.

Formatting From a Mac

To format a drive as FAT32 from a Mac, follow these simple steps.

1. Set up your drive following the manufacturer’s instructions. Connect the power supply (if necessary), connect to the Mac via USB or FireWire, and turn on the drive. The drive should automatically mount on your Mac’s desktop (if the finder preferences are set to show external drives). If the drive is not formatted, you may get a message saying that the drive is unreadable by Mac OS X and asking you whether you want to format it via Disk Utility. We’re going to do this anyway, so open Disk Utility from the prompt or by navigating to /Applications/Utilities.


2. Mac OS X won’t let you create a FAT32 partition larger than 2TB; so if your drive is larger than that, you’ll need to divide the available drive capacity into multiple partitions. You can format the remaining space as a second FAT32 partition or as an HFS+ partition, or you can leave it as unallocated space. To create a new partition, click the drive in the list on the left side of the Disk Utility menu. Click the Partition button in Disk Utility’s main window. By default, Mac OS X will use the GUID partition table to format the drive. You can use this and still share FAT32 volumes with a PC, but if you’ll primarily be using the drive with Windows, and if the full capacity of the drive doesn’t exceed 2TB, the wiser course is to wipe the drive and then use Windows’ Master Boot Record (MBR) partition scheme.


3. Click the Partition Layout drop-down menu in Disk Utility, and select the number of partitions you want to create. By default, Disk Utility will divide the available space in half. You can resize the partitions by clicking the line between the partitions and dragging it up or down to increase or decrease the capacity of one or the other side.

4. Click on whichever partition segment you want to format as FAT32. Type a name for that partition in the Name field and choose the FAT32 option from the Format drop-down menu. Once everything is arranged as you want it, click apply. A progress bar will appear at the bottom right of the window as Disk Utility creates the requested partitions. Once it finishes creating them, you can move the drive between Macs and Windows PCs, and move files back and forth easily.

Formatting From a PC

Here’s how to create a FAT32 partition from a Windows 7 PC.

1. Open the Disk Management utility. To do so, select Start, Control Panel, System and Security, Create and format hard disk partitions. Alternatively, press the Start button and start typing partitions.

2. Find the drive you’d like to format; in my case, it was Disk 5. Click the disk number, and select Convert to MBR Disk (“MBR” stands for “Master Boot Record”). Right-click the unallocated segment in the next field over, select New Simple Volume, and click Next when the wizard launches. Change the value in the Simple Volume size field to32,768MB or less–it needs to be under 32GB, to satisfy the format’s file limit. Assign a drive letter, and click Next.


3. Choose the drive letter to be assigned and click Next. Select FAT32 from the File System drop down menu, label the volume however you like, check the box next to perform a quick format, and click Next. The resulting window tells you that you have successfully completed creating the volume. Click Finish and you’re ready to go.

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Why We Need to Backup the iTunes Audiobooks

I have long been a strong supporter of cloud storage, highlighting the many different ways to use Dropbox, for example. Combine that with iCloud automatically backing up most of our digital purchases and the documents we create in tons of popular apps now, and cloud syncing suddenly just works. We can just sit back and forget about all the complexity — that is, until we need to restore something.

That’s still usually not too much of a problem, since iCloud has all of our purchased music, apps, and movies ready for redownload. But it’ll come as a shock, however, to realize that iTunes does not fully meet this expectation at the moment. Audiobooks purchased through iTunes allow a one-time download at the point of purchase, but you can’t then download to other devices or even the same deviceonce erased. You can re-synchronize them from your PC or Mac library back to your device, but it is the cloud functionality that is not behaving as expected here.

We thought it best to give you a general advisory about this, and to briefly show you how to prevent the loss of your important digital media purchases with a short backup tutorial.

What’s the Issue?

iCloud is a reliable central source for copies of all of your purchased apps, even older apps that you can no longer purchase from the App Store. It will save and restore all of your eBooks from iBooks, look after music purchased through iTunes or uploaded via iTunes Match, and even store and protect your movie downloads. But, for one reason or another, audiobooks are not included in iCloud.

I am investigating further the reason for this, but if you have any idea of the underlying issue, do drop a note in the comments below. I’m guessing it has something to do with content rights, and I do hope it gets resolved soon.

Protected Rights — For You

In the meantime, lets take a look at protecting what you already have. If you have purchased an audiobook from iTunes, it is most likely that it has been downloaded into your iTunes library as a file with digital rights protection. If you still have the audiobook on your device, but not in your iTunes library on your PC or Mac, then go ahead and get those two in sync straight away, ensuring your audiobook is transferred into your iTunes library using the Transfer Purchases option of iTunes.

The next step is to create a Playlist that lists all of your audiobooks that are likely to be affected. You should not need to include in this any titles that are not protected by digital rights. For these, you can already copy or convert to other formats without issue, and you probably have already realised that these are not normally copied to iCloud due to being incompatible with Apple’s implementation of file syncing in iTtunes.


When creating your Smart Playlist, the key aspect to filter on is Kind. Set this to be equal to “Protected AAC”. Go ahead and open up iTunes, and select to create a new Playlist from the File menu. Check the criteria in the screen above to ensure you get a match. Press OK, and you should be presented with a list of your audiobooks purchased through iTunes.

For non-protected files, we would have the option of writing to disc media, or perhaps converting to a standard AAC for uploading to the cloud via iTunes match. These options are not available to us here, because of the protected nature of the files.


Instead, simply select the list of audiobooks shown, and drag and drop them from iTunes to a safe place on your local hard drive, or perhaps to a USB storage device. And remember the age-old rule of 3 regarding safe storage: Take 3 copies of your data onto 2 different types of media and keep 1 copy off-site. It’s as easy as 3,2,1…

Another good idea is to copy these files into another storage folder that is synchronised with a cloud backup service, such as Dropbox or Skydrive. I’ve not tried playing these direct from this cloud source, but I would imagine there would be a media player capable of doing so. Perhaps you can advise us in the comments box if you find something that works well for you.

I have raised the issue with Apple support, and I hope that over time they will follow the example of Audible to allow full backup and restore from iCloud, but for now I hope this has been of some help to you.

For more helps about your Mac, you can view more technical posts on our site whenever you want.

Choose the Correct File System for Your Mac’s Internal or External Storage Device

When you put a new hard drive in your Mac—or connect an external one using FireWire or USB—you need to decide how to partition the drive and what file system to put on it. The easiest way to do that is with the Disk Utility in Applications/Utilities. After you start it, Disk Utility shows a list of all available disks along with all the volumes (partitions) present on those disks on the left side of the window. If you want to keep things simple, just select a disk, click on the “erase” tab and you can create a volume that uses the entire disk with a few mouse clicks.

mac-file-systemIf your needs are more complex, select the “partition” tab. There, you can divide the disk into several partitions. The advantage of having multiple partitions is that if one fails, the others may be unaffected. The downside is that you need to think about the size of the different partitions and keep track of which files go where. And copying files from one partition to another is slow, even slower than copying from one disk to another. Keep in mind that disk access is fastest on the outside of the disk, where the first partition is located. Whether you decide to partition the disk or not, the “options” button lets you set the type of “partition scheme” for the disk. There are three choices:

  • Apple Partition Map: this way of organizing a disk has been used with Macs for a long time. If you want to boot a PowerPC Mac from the disk, you need to use this partition scheme. However, you can’t put any FAT (MS-DOS/Windows-compatible) partitions on the disk.

  • Master Boot Record: this is how MSDOS and Windows organize a disk, so use this if you have an external drive that you also want to use with a Windows machine. It looks like you can also use the Mac OS Extended (HFS+) file system on disks with a master boot record, but it’s unlikely that older Mac OS versions support this.

  • GUID Partition Table: this is how Intel Macs organize their boot disks. You can put partitions with any of the supported file systems on a GUID disk, but only Macs running Mac OS 10.4 can access these disks.

In most cases, you’ll want to use Mac OS Extended (Journaled) as the “volume format” (file system). This supports all the Mac-specific functions such as aliases and resource/data forks. However, this isn’t your only choice. Depending on the partition scheme, these are the file systems Mac OS 10.4 supports:

  • Mac OS Extended or HFS+ is an improved version of Apple’s Hierarchical File System from the mid-1980s.

  • Mac OS Extended (Case Sensitive) is the same file system, but in this case, it treats file names that are the same but have different case as different. So the file text.txt is different from the file Text.txt and both can exist side by side. This matches the behavior of UNIX.

  • Mac OS Extended (Journaled) is also HFS+, but it has an extra mechanism that avoids corruption of the file system when something bad happens, such as loss of power during a write operation.

  • Mac OS Extended (Case Sensitive, Journaled) is HFS+ with a combination of case sensitivity and journaling.

  • MS-DOS File System is the older FAT filesystem used with MS-DOS and Windows. Note that you can’t have files of 4GB or bigger on a FAT volume.

  • UNIX File System (UFS) is exactly what the name suggests. Don’t use it unless you know you need to.

Use HFS+ with journaling if possible, especially on external drives. I’ve lost a lot of data because the FAT file system on a FireWire drive got corrupt after I accidentally turned off the drive while it was in use. After this, newer files started overwriting older ones, but I didn’t find out until a month later. And don’t format or partition an iPod using Disk Utility, because the iPod gets confused, even though it will function as an external drive.

In addition to the file systems listed above that you can use to format your drives with, Mac OS X has various levels of support for the following file systems:

  • HFS: the original Mac file system

  • NTFS: the Windows NT file system (read-only)

  • ISO-9660 (with various extensions): the file system for data CDs

  • UDF: the Universal Disk Format for DVDs

Get the correct way? That’s good, I do hope this post can help you a lot. But if you still need more technical support about Mac, you can visit our site whenever you want.

How to Access Hidden Files or System on Mac OS X

Sometimes due to some reasons, we need to hide some files we don’t want they are viewed by other people on our Mac. But a long time later you want to see these files, guess what happen? You don’t remember how to access the hidden files. Now what?

This experience may happens around us normally. This shot post offers you ways to solve this problem, let’s check it out.

Ways for Access Hidden Files or System

Accessing hidden folders from Finder

If you need to go to a system folder not visible through the “normal” Finder, do the following.

Once you have the Finder dialog open, press “Cmd+G”. Here, enter the path to the folder you want to open.


Accessing hidden files or folders from a dialog

You can show hidden files from any file open dialog by pressing “Cmd+Shift+.”.


If you want to always display hidden files (those starting with a dot or hidden through the extended file attributes), enter the following in a Terminal:

defaults write AppleShowAllFiles TRUE

Then, reload the Finder by option-clicking its icon and selecting “Relaunch”.


You can also toggle this “option” more easily with an AppleScript. See this post for instructions on how to save the AppleScript as an application that you can use to toggle the option without having to use a terminal.

Directly opening system files through the Terminal

As per Andrew’s comment above, of course you can just enter the following:

open -a TextEdit /etc/hosts

open -a TextEdit ~/.somehiddenfile

Or, even shorter:

open -t /etc/hosts


-t Causes the file to be opened with the default text editor, as determined via LaunchServices

Hope this post can help you a lot and you can access your files easily. If you want more technical support for your Mac like recovering files on Mac OS PC, view more articles on our site whenever you want.

Technical Support Article for Sharing Your iOS Device Files

It’s true that you can use your iPad instead of your Mac to take care of many common computing tasks. But unless you’re ready to ditch Mac OS X entirely, you’ll still need to transfer files back and forth between your iPad and your Mac if you’re going to get work done.

Unfortunately, transferring and synchronising files between the Mac and the tablet isn’t easy. There are several different ways to do it, but none are perfect, and each has its deficiencies. Frankly, this is one area where Apple could vastly improve the iPad experience. Until that happens, here are your choices when it comes to transferring files between your various devices.


Apple’s officially endorsed route for file-transfers between iPad and Mac is via iTunes file-sharing. Unfortunately, it’s an amazingly clunky process.

For one thing, it only works with apps that support it. All of Apple’s iPad creation tools—Pages, Keynote, Numbers, GarageBand and iMovie—use iTunes to move files back and forth. Some third-party apps—e-readers, text editors and media creation tools—do too.

But even then, different apps use iTunes in different ways: Apple’s apps, for example, require you to select Save to iTunes when saving a document; other apps make their files available to iTunes automatically.

Worse, though, is the constant manual effort required to keep files in sync. By now, you probably know the routine: Connect your iPad directly to your Mac and open iTunes. Select your iPad in the iTunes source list and click on the Apps tab. Scroll down past the list of installed apps and look for the File Sharing section. Tap the app you want to copy a file from, so its files appear in the Documents pane. Drag one or more of those files to the Desktop (while holding down Option key) to copy them there, or use the Save To button to open a traditional save dialog. If you update a file on your Mac and want to send it back to the iPad, you must then drag that changed file back into iTunes, onto the correct app’s document list again.

It’s hardly elegant.

I have yet to find any solution—an AppleScript, an Automator workflow, a third-party utility—that makes this process any easier. For that reason, I use iTunes file-sharing as an extra backup for lengthy Pages documents and GarageBand projects, but for little else. The workflow required to work on a single file from both your Mac and your iPad is simply too awkward for more frequent use.

Cloud Storage

When I think about file synchronisation, I immediately think of Dropbox (free for 2GB). The service is great at keeping files in sync between my computers. So how does it fare at syncing files between Macs and iPads?


Unfortunately, Dropbox on the iPad is merely adequate—but not through any fault of its own. The Dropbox app, like numerous other cloud storage services (including MobileMe iDisk), offers an easy way to access any files and folders you store with the service. Dropbox’s app makes it a cinch to view any data that’s in iOS-friendly formats, including Word and Pages documents, PDFs, text files, and images. Even better, Dropbox and others like it offer you the option of opening your synced files in their compatible iPad apps; you can, for example, use the Dropbox app to send a word-processing document to Pages.

The flaw in this process is that there’s no way to send the updated file back to Dropbox again from within Pages again. Because of limitations in how iOS currently operates, cloud-storage apps are a one-way street on the iPad. It’s simple to get files from Dropbox into an app, but you can’t send them back to Dropbox when you’re done.

There is one sort-of workaround. In apps that support WebDAV–such as Pages—you can use DropDAV (free for 2GB) to access your Dropbox folder. DropDAV lets you interact with your Dropbox files via a traditional WebDAV connection. Since Pages lets you open files from a remote WebDAV server, you can get your document and edit it on your tablet. Just remember that you’re working on a local copy. When you’re ready to save, you must manually publish your document back to the DropDAV-created WebDAV server. It’s definitely the easiest way to approximate the Dropbox Mac experience on your iPad, but it’s still far from seamless.

Cloud-Compatible Apps

There are some iPad apps that have built-in support for cloud storage (most commonly Dropbox). In fact, Dropbox’s Website lists more than 130 apps that integrate with the service in some way.

There’s a slew of Dropbox-compatible iPad text editors, for example, including Elements ($5.00), iA Writer ($1.19), and Textastic ($12.99). With those editors, syncing feels seamless; your changes save directly into Dropbox; changes you make on your Mac are picked up almost immediately on your iPad. There’s no need to connect your iPad to your Mac; the process feels effortless.


Besides text editors, the list of Dropbox-compatible apps includes full-fledged word processors such as DocumentsToGo ($19.99), QuickOffice ($5.99), and Office2 ($7.99); file readers like ReaddleDocs ($5.99) and GoodReader ($5.99); audio note apps like DropVox ($1.19), Audio Memos ($1.19), Mobile Recorder ($1.19), and Smart Recorder ($3.99), and many more. When apps let you open and save documents directly from and to Dropbox, sane file management becomes painless.

Apple’s iPad apps don’t integrate with Dropbox, but they do work with MobileMe iDisk. Unfortunately, their integration with it isn’t nearly as smooth as you get with the best of the Dropbox apps. Publishing to iDisk is too much like iTunes File Sharing; you’re copying your file to the remote server, instead of maintaining a single, always-in-sync version.

But what Apple’s iWork suite lacks in syncing quality, it attempts to make up for in the number of ways you can sync: Besides iDisk, you can share iWork documents via, send them to iTunes, or copy them via WebDAV. None of those options matches the simplicity of the Dropbox-enabled apps I’ve used. The DropDAV service mentioned earlier helps a bit, but lacks all the niceties that true Dropbox integration can offer.


Unless and until Apple and other vendors build full two-way sync into their apps, the next best thing is email.

Email, of course, is no closer to true realtime synchronising than iTunes File Sharing; you’re still sending copies of your file back and forth, and you have to be careful that you’re always working on the latest version. But emailing offers a couple distinct advantages over the iTunes model.

First, you don’t have to connect your iPad to your Mac. Second, emails include date-stamps, so you don’t need to guess whether you’re working with the most recent version of a file; you can see precisely when you sent it to yourself.

If you plan to rely on email file transfers a lot, it may be worth creating special rules in your mail client of choice to handle these special messages. For example, in Gmail I created a filter that looks for messages that are both from me and to me, and that contain attachments. Those messages get a Files tag and are archived; this way, the Mail app on my iPad shows them neatly tucked into a folder with the same name.

OK, just enjoy reading article about Mac or iOS devices on our site to get more technical support what you need.

How to Manage Stock Menu Bar Items on Mac OS X


When you initially install OS X, there are a few items that are placed in your menu bar by default. There are a couple of ways to go about adding or removing stock OS items from your menu bar in an effort to keep it tidy and organized.

In this tutorial, we’ll cover some of the basic menu bar management tips for stock menu bar items. This includes basic tips on rearranging, removing, and adding items back to the menu bar. We’ve also got a handy video showcasing some of the basic concepts of stock menu bar item management. Have a look inside for more details.

Removing items from the menu bar

Items can be removed from the menu bar by unchecking the menu bar option in the item’s preferences, or by a simple ⌘+drag away from menu bar and release.


To do so by means of the item’s preferences, open the Preferences app and navigate to the section containing your particular menu bar item. Once there, uncheck the “show in menu bar” option and you should see the associated menu bar item immediately disappear. You can add items back by checking the menu bar option; they should reappear immediately.


Rearranging items in the menu bar

Stock menu bar items can be easily rearranged using the same ⌘+drag mentioned in the removal section above; the only difference is, instead of dragging them out of the menu bar and releasing, you position your cursor on the menu bar at the place you’d like the item to reside and release.

Just like the previous section mentioned, rearranging menu bar items can only be done with stock items. You cannot do this with third party apps that place items in the menu bar. There is another utility that we will cover in a future post that allows you to better manage all menu bar items, and that includes third party items as well.

A few exceptions

While most of the stock menu bar icons such as Time Machine, time, user, Bluetooth, AirPlay, Wi-Fi, sound and various others can be moved and removed with no issue, there are a few exceptions to the rules. Spotlight search can neither be removed or moved to a different area of the screen. It will always occupy the second to right-most portion of your menu bar. The other exception is Notification Center, which is the right-most app icon available in the menu bar. It should be mentioned that you can’t even hide these icons by unchecking their menu bar options in the Preferences app; these two particular menu bar items are here to stay.

That’s about as far as you can take menu bar management without the help of additional utilities. As you can see, managing the menu bar is quite limited with stock OS X, but a whole new can of worms can be opened up with a handy third party utility. We’ll be back with more examples and tips on managing the menu bar in OS X. In the meantime, leave us a comment below discussing how you manage the menu bar items on your system.

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